1872 Owens Valley
The Earthquake
DURING THE WINTER after we met Emerson, while
Muir was acting as caretaker at Black's Hotel under Sentinel Rock,
Yosemite Valley was shaken by the violent Inyo Earthquake of March
26, 1872. The terror of the inhabitants was increased by the theory
advanced by the state geologist, Dr. Josiah Dwight Whitney, that
the floor of the valley had dropped down during some ancient cataclysm.
Imagining another cataclysm at hand, they upbraided Muir for his
unbelief and glacial theories and some, mounting horses and mules,
fled to the lowland.
IN YOSEMITE VALLEY, one morning about two o'clock,
I was aroused by an earthquake; and though I had never before enjoyed
a storm of this sort, the strange, wild thrilling motion and rumbling
could not be mistaken, and I ran out of my cabin, near the Sentinel
Rock, both glad and frightened, shouting, "A noble earthquake!"
feeling sure I was going to learn something. The shocks were so
violent and varied, and succeeded one another so closely, one had
to balance in walking as if on the deck of a ship among the waves,
and it seemed impossible the high cliffs should escape being shattered.
In particular, I feared that the sheer-fronted Sentinel Rock, which
rises to a height of three thousand feet, would be shaken down,
and I took shelter back of a big Pine, hoping I might be protected
from outbounding boulders, should any come so far. I was now convinced
that an earthquake had been the maker of the taluses and positive
proof soon came. It was a calm moonlight night, and no sound was
heard for the first minute or two save a low muffled underground
rumbling and a slight rustling of the agitated trees, as if, in
wrestling with the mountains, Nature were holding her breath. Then,
suddenly, out of the strange silence and strange motion there came
a tremendous roar. The Eagle Rock, a short distance up the valley,
had given way, and I saw it falling in thousands of the great boulders
I had been studying so long, pouring to the valley floor in a free
curve luminous from friction, making a terribly sublime and beautiful
spectacle -an arc of fire fifteen hundred feet span, as true in
form and as steady as a rainbow, in the midst of the stupendous
roaring rock-storm The sound was inconceivably deep and broad and
earnest, as if the whole earth, like a living creature, had at last
found a voice and were calling to her sister planets. It seemed
to me that if all the thunder I ever heard were condensed into one
roar it would not equal this rock roar at the birth of a mountain
talus. Think, then, of the roar that arose to heaven when all the
thousands of ancient canon taluses throughout the length and breadth
of the range were simultaneously given birth.
The main storm was soon over, and, eager to see the newborn talus,
I ran up the valley in the moonlight and climbed it before the huge
blocks, after their wild fiery flight, had come to complete rest
They were slowly settling into their places, chafing, grating against
one another, groaning, and whispering; but no motion was visible
except in a stream of small fragments pattering down the face of
the cliff at the head of the talus. A cloud of dust particles, the
smallest of the boulders, floated out across the whole breadth of
the valley and formed a ceiling that lasted until after sunrise,
and the air was loaded with the odor of crushed Douglas Spruces,
from a grove that had been mowed down and mashed like weeds.
Sauntering about to see what other changes had been made, I found
the Indians in the middle of the valley, terribly frightened, of
course, fearing the angry spirits of the rocks were trying to kill
them. The few whites wintering in the valley were assembled in front
of the old Hutchings hotel comparing notes and meditating flight
to steadier ground, seemingly as sorely frightened as the Indians.
It is always interesting to see people in dead earnest, from whatever
cause, and earthquakes make everybody earnest. Shortly after sunrise,
a low blunt muffled rumbling, like distant thunder, was followed
by another series of shocks, which, though not nearly so severe
as the first, made the cliffs and domes tremble like jelly, and
the big Pines and Oaks thrill and swish and wave their branches
with startling effect. Then the groups of talkers were suddenly
hushed, and the solemnity on their faces was sublime. One in particular
of these winter neighbors, a rather thoughtful speculative man,
with whom I had often conversed, was a firm believer in the cataclysmic
origin of the valley; and I now jokingly remarked that his wild
tumble-down-and-engulfment hypothesis might soon be proved, since
these underground rumblings and shakings might be the forerunners
of another Yosemite making cataclysm, which would perhaps double
the depth of the valley by swallowing the floor, leaving the ends
of the wagon roads and trails three or four thousand feet in the
air. Just then came the second series of shocks, and it was fine
to see how awfully silent and solemn he became. His belief in the
existence of a mysterious abyss, into which the suspended floor
of the valley and all the domes and battlements of the wars might
at any moment go roaring down, mightily troubled him. To cheer and
tease him into another view of the case, I said: "Come, cheer
up; smile a little and clap your hands, now that kind Mother Earth
is trotting us on her knee to amuse us and make us good." But
the well-meant joke seemed irreverent and utterly failed, as if
only prayerful terror could rightly belong to the wild beauty-making
business. Even after all the heavier shocks were over, I could do
nothing to reassure him. On the contrary, he handed me the keys
of his little store, and, with a companion of like mind, fled to
the lowlands. In about a month he returned; but a sharp shock occurred
that very day, which sent him flying again.
The rocks trembled more or less every day for over two months,
and I kept a bucket of water on my table to learn what I could of
the movements. The blunt thunder-tones in the depths of the mountains
were usually followed by sudden jarring, horizontal thrusts from
the northward, often succeeded by twisting, upjolting movements.
Judging by its effects, this Yosemite, or Inyo earthquake, as it
is sometimes called, was gentle as compared with the one that gave
rise to the grand talus system of the range and did so much for
the canyon scenery. Nature, usually so deliberate in her operations,
then created, as we have seen, a new set of features, simply by
giving the mountains a shake - changing not only the high peaks
and cliffs, but the streams. As soon as these rock avalanches fell
every stream began to sing new songs; for in many places thousands
of boulders were hurled into their channels, roughening and half
damming them, compelling the waters to surge and roar in rapids
where before they were gliding smoothly. Some of the streams were
completely dammed, driftwood, leaves, etc., filling the interstices
between the boulders, thus giving rise to lakes and level reaches;
and these, again, after being gradually filled in, to smooth meadows,
through which the streams now silently meander; while at the same
time some of the taluses took the places of old meadows and groves.
Thus rough places were made smooth, and smooth places rough. But
on the whole, by what at first sight seemed pure confusion and ruin,
the landscapes were enriched; for gradually every talus, however
big the boulders composing it, was covered with groves and gardens,
and made a finely proportioned and ornamental base for the sheer
cliffs. In this beauty work, every boulder is prepared and measured
and put in its place more thoughtfully than are the stones of temples.
If for a moment you are inclined to regard these taluses as mere
draggled, chaotic dumps, climb to the top of one of them, tie your
mountain shoes firmly over the instep, and with braced nerves run
down without any haggling, puttering hesitation, boldly jumping
from boulder to boulder with even speed. You will then find your
feet playing a tune, and quickly discover the music and poetry of
rock-piles -a fine lesson; and all Nature's wildness tells the same
story. Storms of every sort, torrents, earthquakes, cataclysms,
``convulsions of nature,'' etc., however mysterious and lawless
at first sight they may seem, are only harmonious notes in the song
of creation, varied expressions of God's love.
(Our National Parks)
With permission from: The Wilderness World of John Muir, Edwin
Way Teale, editor, Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1954. |